Easy Grow Orchids
Episode: # 14 14/07/07
Presenter: Sue McDougall
Many people find orchids difficult to grow but in fact nothing could be further from the truth. Cymbidiums are one of the easiest species to grow often sending up flowers if they have been neglected.
Ezi-Gro Orchids have been growing orchids for over 20 years and even if you have a small fascination for these plants Sue recommends you drop by to have a look as winter and spring are when these plants are at their best. It is hard not to become inspired with all the choice.
The trick to keeping you orchids flowering is to give it as much sunlight as possible from March to September. The more winter sun the more flowers you will get.
Once your plant has finished flowering you can split them up and it is very easy. All you need is a new pot and some chunky pine bark mix. Orchids rot really easy so this is the ideal mix to plant them into. Ezi-Gro adds dolomite lime to their potting mix to stop it breaking down too quickly and also keeps the soil nice and sweet.
Remove the back bulbs, these can be planted into small pots and will flower in a few years time. You will need to keep one with the green part of the plant. The key is not to over pot them because the fertiliser and potting mix will turn sour. Use a pot that will last for about two years. Another trick is to plant them at the side so that it will grow into the middle of the pot.
Fertilising orchids is easy because all they need is a controlled release fertiliser twice a year that contains all the nutrients needed for flowering.
One of the problems with orchids the amount of damage a slug or a snail can do to them. The best way to avoid this is hanging pots. This way you can enjoy up to six different plants hanging on the patio without the worry of a snail insight.
Cattleya orchids look exotic with their large regal looking flowers but in fact they are very easy to grow and their flowers will last for many weeks and are perfect for the stylish indoor plant.
A visit to Ezi-Gro is well worth the trip and the staff will let you tell you everything there is to know about growing these fantastic plants. They will even supply you with a cultural sheet (See Below) that will guarantee you success and many flowers.
Ezi-Gro Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Landsdale Western Australia 6065
IMPORTERS / EXPORTERS
Website: www.ezi-gro.com.au/index.html
Email: Ezi-Gro@iinet.net.au
Ph : +61 (08) 9343 2761
Fax : +61 (08) 9309 3182
Cattleya Cultural Notes
Cattleyas grow quite easily in our climate and are very rewarding with their spectacular brightly coloured blooms. They can be grown under a range of conditions. The following notes are a guide on how to grow cattleyas.
Light-Shading
Cattleyas require less light than cybidiums, about 70% to 80% shade. They will grow under brighter conditions if the plant is acclimatised to it slowly. They grow best in a glasshouse with 70% to 80% shading but will still perform well under fibre-glass sheeting.
Temperature
Cattleyas can be grown successfully cold, without any form of heating and will still flower well. If given heat during the winter (a minimum temp of about 12 degrees C) they will continue to grow without a rest and small plants will mature more quickly. Flowering size plants may flower twice a year with heat. Cattleyas need to be protected from frosts and therefore in winter should be grown under fibreglass, glass or other protective material. The protective covering will also prevent over watering from winter rains. All orchids prefer air movement, the more the better.
Potting Medium
In nature, cattleyas grow on tree limbs and forks of limbs so they require a very open mix. Make sure the potting mix used is very open. The roots act like a sponge and will hold water. If the potting medium is constantly wet, the roots of the Cattleya will rot and the plant may be lost. We use weathered pine-bark. The pine bark size is larger that that used for cymbidiums, approximately 10-20mm chunks. I do not add lime to the pine bark but let nature weather it. It takes about 6 months to weather the bark. During this time it is kept constantly moist. If not weathered, toxic substances will be released, nitrogen will be robbed from the plant to break the bark down and the plant will dry out excessively due to the new bark not holding the moisture.
Watering
Rate of watering depends on numerous factors, climate, potting medium, size of the plant and where they are grown. If the potting mix used is of a very open nature when it is hard to over water your orchid. We grow cattleyas under fibreglass and in a glasshouse. We try to provide as much air movement as possible so they dry out very quickly after watering. In summer we water once a day in the morning using overhead sprinklers. In autumn and spring about every second day and in mid winter about every third day depending on the weather. In winter, if very wet and humidity is high the watering can be delayed for 4 to 7 days. We do not dry out our plants to the extreme that the bulbs shrink.
Fertilizing
Cattleyas obtain nutrients in nature from bird droppings and broken down leaf matter that falls around it. We do not believe in the use of a lot of fertilizers. We add slow release fertilizers to our potting mediums at the rate of one tablespoon to a 200mm pot (8” pot). The slow release fertilizers we use are Nutricote (3-4 month release) and Magamp. The slow release fertilizers are mixed into the pine before potting.
Re-Potting
Large Cattleya plants will still grow and flower well when the new growth has reached the edge of the pot and its roots are outside. For best appearance these plants should be either re-potted or divided. It is best to re-pot or divide in spring. Cattleyas should be re-potted into a new mix at least every two to three years otherwise the root system will start to deteriorate. Small plants will require potting at a more frequent interval until they reach a 150mm size pot. They are best grown in a plastic squat pot with extra drainage holes cut in the bottom.
Dividing
I like to grow my cattleyas into large specimen size plants. When dividing cattleyas, three or more green growths should be in a division. Cut through the rhizome with a sterilize knife, where the plant is to be divided and place a small object (such as a match) to keep the cut apart. After a few months the old division or back cut will develop a new growth. At this stage re-pot each piece.
Pests and Diseases
The biggest problem is funghi (black rot). The best preventative is good air movement or ventilation. In autumn and spring it is best to apply a fungicide such as Fongarid. If a leaf develops black rot, cut the diseased area out and soak the plant in Fongarid for 15 minutes. Other pests such as scale, mealy bug, thrips must also be watched out for.
Flowering
Don’t open the sheaths if possible. Let the buds break through on their own. If the sheath goes yellow then tear a small hole in the base so excess water drains out. If torn open at the top, water will collect in the sheath and rot the buds. Once the buds are exposed watch for pests and put snail pellets around. There are two main flowering seasons, spring and autumn. With good culture a plant may flower twice a year. Flowers normally last one to two months and can be strongly perfumed.
Cymbidium Orchids
Cymbidium orchids are hardy plants and are easy to grow. They like the same conditions as we do, temperatures in the 20’s, humidity of about 50% and shade in the summer. Most amateurs can grow orchids well but have difficulty in flowering them. This usually can be overcome by finding a position where the plant receives more light.
Position
Cymbidiums will tolerate full sun throughout the year, but it is best to find a position where they will receive 50% shade in summer. Remember too much shade will cause a decrease in flowering. 50% shade cloth is the best to use otherwise a very open shaded tree. Don’t crowd your orchid plants, an empty pot of equal size should fir between.
Watering
This will depend on the type of potting mix used, position of orchid and atmospheric conditions, temperature and humidity. In winter, once or twice a week is sufficient in the morning. In summer, water each night. The night time watering is to reduce temperature. The drop in temperature helps in the initiation of flower spikes. In heat wave conditions watering may have to be done twice a day. When watering thoroughly saturate the potting mix. Stop when water comes out the bottom of the pot.
Fertilizing
Everyone has their own thoughts. I don’t do any liquid fertilizing but add slow release fertilizers to the potting mix. These include Nutricote and Magamp at a concentration of two tablespoons to a gallon bucket of potting mix. If you want to liquid fertilize use half strength Aquasol fortnightly during the warmer months of the year.
Potting Mix
Again there are hundreds of combinations. Weathered pine bark with the above slow release fertilizers gives excellent results. The pine bark pieces should be about 10 – 15mm in size. Never pot an orchid into sand, you will destroy its roots. The mix should be open. Water should run straight through the potting mix.
Repotting
Pine bark breaks down and will retain the water in the pot. At this stage, usually every two years the orchid should be potted into new mix. Use plastic pots and don’t over pot. Give the plant enough room for one to two years only.
Dividing
When the plant gets large the plant may have to be divided. When dividing, make each piece have a minimum of three green bulbs. Best time is after flowering or in spring. Try not to exceed pots of 250mm in size, they become very heavy.
Backbulbs
The old bulbs without leaves can be individually potted. This is done when repotting or dividing. These old bulbs usually will produce a new shoot, which can be grown up to a flowering plant.
Orchids in Spike
A flower spike can be supported using a bamboo stake once it reaches about 15cm high. Spikes appear at the base of new growths during February to April. The flower spike at this stage looks like a fat pencil. At this stage snail pellets should be put around the pot and on top of the potting mix. When the flower buds break through the protective sheath the plant should be moved to a position so the buds are protected from strong winds and frost. Don’t place the orchid in a dark area as the buds wont open. A verandah or patio is ideal.
Orchids in Flower
When the first flowers open then the plant can be taken inside. Water the plant once a week and cut the flower spike off no longer than four weeks after the first flower opens. Put the flower spike in a vase and cut 1 to 2cm off the bottom of the stem once a week at the same time changing the water.
Diseases
The main problem is fungal infection. If good air movement occurs in the growing area then fungal infections will not occur. Any fungicide can be used, e.g. Benlate, Fongarid or Previcur. The next biggest problem is red spider. Don’t apply insecticide or fungicide sprays to flower buds, they can deform them. Use a powder.
Happy Growing and Successful Flowering!
Presenter: Sue McDougall
Many people find orchids difficult to grow but in fact nothing could be further from the truth. Cymbidiums are one of the easiest species to grow often sending up flowers if they have been neglected.
Ezi-Gro Orchids have been growing orchids for over 20 years and even if you have a small fascination for these plants Sue recommends you drop by to have a look as winter and spring are when these plants are at their best. It is hard not to become inspired with all the choice.
The trick to keeping you orchids flowering is to give it as much sunlight as possible from March to September. The more winter sun the more flowers you will get.
Once your plant has finished flowering you can split them up and it is very easy. All you need is a new pot and some chunky pine bark mix. Orchids rot really easy so this is the ideal mix to plant them into. Ezi-Gro adds dolomite lime to their potting mix to stop it breaking down too quickly and also keeps the soil nice and sweet.
Remove the back bulbs, these can be planted into small pots and will flower in a few years time. You will need to keep one with the green part of the plant. The key is not to over pot them because the fertiliser and potting mix will turn sour. Use a pot that will last for about two years. Another trick is to plant them at the side so that it will grow into the middle of the pot.
Fertilising orchids is easy because all they need is a controlled release fertiliser twice a year that contains all the nutrients needed for flowering.
One of the problems with orchids the amount of damage a slug or a snail can do to them. The best way to avoid this is hanging pots. This way you can enjoy up to six different plants hanging on the patio without the worry of a snail insight.
Cattleya orchids look exotic with their large regal looking flowers but in fact they are very easy to grow and their flowers will last for many weeks and are perfect for the stylish indoor plant.
A visit to Ezi-Gro is well worth the trip and the staff will let you tell you everything there is to know about growing these fantastic plants. They will even supply you with a cultural sheet (See Below) that will guarantee you success and many flowers.
Ezi-Gro Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Landsdale Western Australia 6065
IMPORTERS / EXPORTERS
Website: www.ezi-gro.com.au/index.html
Email: Ezi-Gro@iinet.net.au
Ph : +61 (08) 9343 2761
Fax : +61 (08) 9309 3182
Cattleya Cultural Notes
Cattleyas grow quite easily in our climate and are very rewarding with their spectacular brightly coloured blooms. They can be grown under a range of conditions. The following notes are a guide on how to grow cattleyas.
Light-Shading
Cattleyas require less light than cybidiums, about 70% to 80% shade. They will grow under brighter conditions if the plant is acclimatised to it slowly. They grow best in a glasshouse with 70% to 80% shading but will still perform well under fibre-glass sheeting.
Temperature
Cattleyas can be grown successfully cold, without any form of heating and will still flower well. If given heat during the winter (a minimum temp of about 12 degrees C) they will continue to grow without a rest and small plants will mature more quickly. Flowering size plants may flower twice a year with heat. Cattleyas need to be protected from frosts and therefore in winter should be grown under fibreglass, glass or other protective material. The protective covering will also prevent over watering from winter rains. All orchids prefer air movement, the more the better.
Potting Medium
In nature, cattleyas grow on tree limbs and forks of limbs so they require a very open mix. Make sure the potting mix used is very open. The roots act like a sponge and will hold water. If the potting medium is constantly wet, the roots of the Cattleya will rot and the plant may be lost. We use weathered pine-bark. The pine bark size is larger that that used for cymbidiums, approximately 10-20mm chunks. I do not add lime to the pine bark but let nature weather it. It takes about 6 months to weather the bark. During this time it is kept constantly moist. If not weathered, toxic substances will be released, nitrogen will be robbed from the plant to break the bark down and the plant will dry out excessively due to the new bark not holding the moisture.
Watering
Rate of watering depends on numerous factors, climate, potting medium, size of the plant and where they are grown. If the potting mix used is of a very open nature when it is hard to over water your orchid. We grow cattleyas under fibreglass and in a glasshouse. We try to provide as much air movement as possible so they dry out very quickly after watering. In summer we water once a day in the morning using overhead sprinklers. In autumn and spring about every second day and in mid winter about every third day depending on the weather. In winter, if very wet and humidity is high the watering can be delayed for 4 to 7 days. We do not dry out our plants to the extreme that the bulbs shrink.
Fertilizing
Cattleyas obtain nutrients in nature from bird droppings and broken down leaf matter that falls around it. We do not believe in the use of a lot of fertilizers. We add slow release fertilizers to our potting mediums at the rate of one tablespoon to a 200mm pot (8” pot). The slow release fertilizers we use are Nutricote (3-4 month release) and Magamp. The slow release fertilizers are mixed into the pine before potting.
Re-Potting
Large Cattleya plants will still grow and flower well when the new growth has reached the edge of the pot and its roots are outside. For best appearance these plants should be either re-potted or divided. It is best to re-pot or divide in spring. Cattleyas should be re-potted into a new mix at least every two to three years otherwise the root system will start to deteriorate. Small plants will require potting at a more frequent interval until they reach a 150mm size pot. They are best grown in a plastic squat pot with extra drainage holes cut in the bottom.
Dividing
I like to grow my cattleyas into large specimen size plants. When dividing cattleyas, three or more green growths should be in a division. Cut through the rhizome with a sterilize knife, where the plant is to be divided and place a small object (such as a match) to keep the cut apart. After a few months the old division or back cut will develop a new growth. At this stage re-pot each piece.
Pests and Diseases
The biggest problem is funghi (black rot). The best preventative is good air movement or ventilation. In autumn and spring it is best to apply a fungicide such as Fongarid. If a leaf develops black rot, cut the diseased area out and soak the plant in Fongarid for 15 minutes. Other pests such as scale, mealy bug, thrips must also be watched out for.
Flowering
Don’t open the sheaths if possible. Let the buds break through on their own. If the sheath goes yellow then tear a small hole in the base so excess water drains out. If torn open at the top, water will collect in the sheath and rot the buds. Once the buds are exposed watch for pests and put snail pellets around. There are two main flowering seasons, spring and autumn. With good culture a plant may flower twice a year. Flowers normally last one to two months and can be strongly perfumed.
Cymbidium Orchids
Cymbidium orchids are hardy plants and are easy to grow. They like the same conditions as we do, temperatures in the 20’s, humidity of about 50% and shade in the summer. Most amateurs can grow orchids well but have difficulty in flowering them. This usually can be overcome by finding a position where the plant receives more light.
Position
Cymbidiums will tolerate full sun throughout the year, but it is best to find a position where they will receive 50% shade in summer. Remember too much shade will cause a decrease in flowering. 50% shade cloth is the best to use otherwise a very open shaded tree. Don’t crowd your orchid plants, an empty pot of equal size should fir between.
Watering
This will depend on the type of potting mix used, position of orchid and atmospheric conditions, temperature and humidity. In winter, once or twice a week is sufficient in the morning. In summer, water each night. The night time watering is to reduce temperature. The drop in temperature helps in the initiation of flower spikes. In heat wave conditions watering may have to be done twice a day. When watering thoroughly saturate the potting mix. Stop when water comes out the bottom of the pot.
Fertilizing
Everyone has their own thoughts. I don’t do any liquid fertilizing but add slow release fertilizers to the potting mix. These include Nutricote and Magamp at a concentration of two tablespoons to a gallon bucket of potting mix. If you want to liquid fertilize use half strength Aquasol fortnightly during the warmer months of the year.
Potting Mix
Again there are hundreds of combinations. Weathered pine bark with the above slow release fertilizers gives excellent results. The pine bark pieces should be about 10 – 15mm in size. Never pot an orchid into sand, you will destroy its roots. The mix should be open. Water should run straight through the potting mix.
Repotting
Pine bark breaks down and will retain the water in the pot. At this stage, usually every two years the orchid should be potted into new mix. Use plastic pots and don’t over pot. Give the plant enough room for one to two years only.
Dividing
When the plant gets large the plant may have to be divided. When dividing, make each piece have a minimum of three green bulbs. Best time is after flowering or in spring. Try not to exceed pots of 250mm in size, they become very heavy.
Backbulbs
The old bulbs without leaves can be individually potted. This is done when repotting or dividing. These old bulbs usually will produce a new shoot, which can be grown up to a flowering plant.
Orchids in Spike
A flower spike can be supported using a bamboo stake once it reaches about 15cm high. Spikes appear at the base of new growths during February to April. The flower spike at this stage looks like a fat pencil. At this stage snail pellets should be put around the pot and on top of the potting mix. When the flower buds break through the protective sheath the plant should be moved to a position so the buds are protected from strong winds and frost. Don’t place the orchid in a dark area as the buds wont open. A verandah or patio is ideal.
Orchids in Flower
When the first flowers open then the plant can be taken inside. Water the plant once a week and cut the flower spike off no longer than four weeks after the first flower opens. Put the flower spike in a vase and cut 1 to 2cm off the bottom of the stem once a week at the same time changing the water.
Diseases
The main problem is fungal infection. If good air movement occurs in the growing area then fungal infections will not occur. Any fungicide can be used, e.g. Benlate, Fongarid or Previcur. The next biggest problem is red spider. Don’t apply insecticide or fungicide sprays to flower buds, they can deform them. Use a powder.
Happy Growing and Successful Flowering!
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